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MontGuide fact sheet MT 2000-10 Agriculture
Electric Fencing to Control Deer and Elk on Montana's Farms and Ranches
Lisa Schmidt, Madison-Jefferson County Agent, and Jim
Knight, MSU Extension Wildlife Specialist
Elk and deer contribute to Montana's economy through increased tourism
and hunter expenditures for equipment, fuel and food during the hunting
season. Tourism is Montana's second largest industry, contributing $1.4
billion to Montana's economy in 1996. Economists have estimated the value
of each deer harvested in the United States to be $1,250, based on hunter
expenditures in local areas.
However, damage by elk and deer is expensive. Big game forage consumption
costs southwest Montana landowners an average of $5,616 each year. Montana
landowners also pay for grazing and trampling damage done by elk and deer
to crops, gardens, timber, rangelands, fences and water systems. Several
methods to control deer and elk have been used with varying levels of success.
Repellants such as periodic explosions and odors can be effective for limited
periods, but are not long-term solutions. Exclusion, although expensive,
is usually the most effective method to protect large areas such as fields.
Benefits Versus Costs
Before a landowner decides to control elk and deer in an area, he or she
should evaluate the value added to the land as a result of the protection
compared to the cost of protection. This benefit/cost ratio should be greater
than one before it is worth protecting an area. For example, if elk damage
$1,000 worth of alfalfa in a field, and it costs $900 to build a fence
to exclude the elk, the benefit/cost ratio is 1,000/900 or 1.11. The benefits
are higher than the costs, so it is worth protecting the alfalfa, especially
when the benefits are spread over several years.
Fencing to Exclude Elk and Deer from Croplands
Although repellants protect crops for short periods of time, fences are
the most effective protection over the long-term. Several types of fences
are available to exclude elk and deer from croplands. Landowners have to
consider the cost of constructing and maintaining the fence as well as
the effectiveness of the fence. Seven-foot woven wire fences have proven
to keep elk and deer out for up to 30 years, but they are expensive to
construct (Table 1). Barbed wire fences are less expensive to construct,
but are usually less effective and require more maintenance. Electric fences
are relatively inexpensive to construct and will effectively exclude elk
and deer if constructed properly. However, they have a higher maintenance
requirement than a woven wire fence.
Constructing an Effective Permanent Electric Fence
Electric fences are psychological barriers rather than physiological barriers.
Whole herds of elk and deer can be repelled by an electric fence when one
animal is shocked. Others in the herd see the reaction to pain and identify
the electric fence as a threat. For electric fences to be effective psychological
barriers, they must consistently impose a perceived threat.
Construction
· Use high voltage, high tensile 8-wire electric fences to repel
both elk and deer.
· If only elk are a problem, 7 wires will be sufficient.
· The fence should be about 6 feet high.
· The bottom 3 wires should be spaced 8 inches apart.
· Space the other wires 10-12 inches apart. Every other wire
should be a ground wire.
· See Figure 1 for a general idea of the fence construction.
Figure 1. Electric Fences are a practical way to exclude deer and
elk from high value crops of pastures.
Voltage
At least 4,000 volts must be continuously maintained in the fence using
a high quality fence charger. Because the hollow hair of deer and elk acts
as an insulator, 4,000 volts are required to provide sufficient shock.
(See
Cautions.)
Once the fence is constructed, periodically check the voltage with an electric
fence tester.
Table 1: Effectiveness and cost of various fence types*
| Construction Fence |
Expected Cost/mi. |
Life |
Effectiveness |
| 8-foot woven wire |
$4787/mi. |
30 years |
Excellent |
| 8-foot 10-wire, barbed |
$4027/mi. |
30 years |
Good |
| 8-wire perm. elect. |
$4000-$5950/mi. |
30 years |
Excellent |
| 2-wire temp. elect. |
$1310-$1685/mi. |
5-10 years |
Moderate |
*Labor is not included in cost estimates. $283 for a solar-powered electric
charger is included in the electric fence estimates. Chargers generally
vary in price from $100 to $475.
Grounding Systems
A good ground will ensure that the voltage is high enough to repel elk
and deer. Plan to use four ground rods, buried six feet apart. Pound 6-foot
galvanized rods 5 feet into the ground. Galvanized pipe will provide a
good ground, but be sure to cap the top so rainwater does not fill the
pipe. If rocky soil prevents driving a ground rod, bury the rod horizontally
as deeply as possible and connect insulated ground wires from the fence
to it.
Charging Fences Immediately
Deer and elk will constantly test a fence, so if they find they can penetrate
it one time, an electric fence loses its effectiveness. The
fences should always be charged. A common mistake is to turn off the electricity
during the off-season. This makes the fence ineffective even when it is
recharged because the deer and elk have learned they can penetrate it.
It is imperative that the fence is charged as soon as any portion is completed.
Even if only 100 yards are built in a day and wildlife could easily walk
around a fence, charge that 100-yard segment.
Visibility and Vegetation Issues
Because the fence is a repellant, it is important that elk and deer can
see it. Use polytape or shiny metal reflectors on the wire to provide visibility
and attract the curiosity of deer and elk. Polytape comes in a variety
of colors, but studies show white provides the most contrast so it is the
most visible. Expect to replace polytape every 3-5 years. If the fence
crosses through heavy vegetation, plan to clear a 10-15 foot buffer outside
the fence so elk and deer will see it. On steep slopes, the buffer should
be wider.
Vegetation that touches the fence may divert some of the voltage. If
feasible, plan to mow vegetation under the fence. If mowing is not feasible,
plan another option for controlling vegetation that may short out the fence.
Pull grass by hand, cut shrubs with a machete and trim trees with a chain
saw. Herbicides also control vegetation well.
Preparing the Fence
Hot wires should be initially coated with peanut butter and molasses. This
mixture attracts elk and deer and ensures that the first contact with the
fence will be with the tongue or nose instead of the body insulated by
hair. To coat wires with the mixture, combine the peanut butter and molasses
to the consistency of thick paint, then use a mop glove to spread the mixture
along the wires.
Charger Considerations
Electric fence chargers can be solar- or battery-powered, or use an AC
current. AC current chargers are the most reliable and least expensive,
but a hard-wire system is not always feasible because many areas are not
near electric power sources. Deep-cycle battery-powered chargers and combination
solar/battery powered chargers are good alternatives when main power is
not available. Two or more chargers might be more effective if large areas
are to be fenced. When designing the electric fence, buy a low-impedance
charger with enough power to compensate for stray vegetation or other possible
shorts.
Chargers should be located as near the fence as possible. Mount a charger
to a wooden post or other stable fixture. Face solar panels towards the
south at an angle that faces the sun. A solar-powered charger needs a minimum
of 4-5 hours of sunlight each day so it can charge the battery. Cloudy
days usually will provide enough sunlight to energize a fence, but the
battery must be charged so the fence will be energized at night.
Cautions
Modern high quality fence chargers normally do not pose a significant hazard
to humans. Because they give out pulses of electricity they do not present
the dangers of the high amperage, continuous current chargers of many years
ago. Nevertheless, use common sense when placing your electric fence. A
4,000-volt charge of electricity is very unpleasant and could be dangerous
to certain individuals. Inexpensive signs are available and should be used
as a precaution.
Effective Temporary Electric Fences
Two-strand, 17-gauge temporary electric fences have proven effective under
moderate deer pressure. The principles behind temporary electric fences
are the same as the principles of permanent electric fences. The fence
is a psychological barrier rather than a physical barrier. It is important
to install this type of fence prior to the time the deer or elk start using
the area. Elk and deer must be able to see the fence and be conditioned
to avoid it. Temporary fences are less expensive to construct than permanent
fences, but require maintenance more often. They are a good option for
areas that have heavy snowfall or other conditions that cause seasonal
grounding or maintenance problems.
Construction
To construct a temporary fence:
· Suspend the hot wire (+) about 36 inches high and then ground
wire (-) about 18 inches high.
· Plastic or fiberglass rods are convenient temporary posts.
Place them 30-60 feet apart.
· Use wooden posts or T-posts with insulators to support the
corners.
· Wrap aluminum foil "flags" on the hot wire at 20-50 foot intervals.
· Coat the hot wire and "flags" with peanut butter and molasses.
· Keep the fence clear from vegetation that will short out the
electric current.
· Maintain a clear buffer on the outside of the fence so elk
and deer will see it.
Extending Fence Height
Constructing a 72-inch high fence usually results in having to buy 8-foot
T-posts for the line and 8 to 10-foot posts for the corners. One way to
save money on the T-posts is to use existing T-posts for the bottom 48
inches and add a 3/8-inch fiberglass rod for the top 2 feet. To support
the fiberglass rod, use a brand of plastic insulator that snaps onto T-posts
and has a plastic pin to retain the wire. Remove the pin, drill the holes
out to 3/8 inch and insert the fiberglass rod in the holes to extend your
T-post as shown in Figure 2.
Figure 2. Using drilled out insulators, a T-post 4 feet high can
be extended to 6 feet in height.
The fiberglass rod costs about a dollar as compared to over three dollars
for an 8-foot T-post. If you are using wood posts, drill a 3/8-inch hole
in the top of the post. Insert the rebar or fiberglass rod in the hole
to extend the height of the post.
Protecting Haystacks from Elk and Deer

Figure 3. When the ground is frozen, rebar or fiberglass rods can be
used to hold electric fence wires.
Elk and deer are notorious for eating out of haystacks, especially during
extremely hard winters. Haystacks can be protected with electric fence
even if the ground is frozen. Instead of using t-posts, steel rebar or
fiberglass rods can be poked horizontally into the haystack to hold the
wires in place (Figure 3). These rods are sturdy enough to hold the wires
out away from the hay. Insulators can be attached to rebar so the wires
do not ground out. Be sure to keep a 12?15 foot open border around the
outside of the fence to make it easy for the animals to see the wire.
This information is for educational purposes only. Reference to commercial
products or trade names does not imply discrimination or endorsement by
the Montana State University Extension Service.
Copyright 2000 MSU Extension Service
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(406) 994-2721; E-mail - publications@montana.edu.
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to all people regardless of race, creed, color, sex, disability or national
origin. Issued in furtherance of cooperative extension work in agriculture
and home economics, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with
the U.S. Department of Agriculture, David A. Bryant, Vice Provost and Director,
Extension Service, Montana State University, Bozeman, MT 59717.
File under: Wildlife
A-3 (Big Game Animals)
Printed Dec. 2000 (106-1000-10-00 MG)
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