Three large red beets lie in a row A spray of small branches covered in yellow flowersA close-up of a head of purple cabbageSeveral blooming marigoldsClusters of red berries hang from a branch

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For centuries, humans all over the world have used natural dyes from plants to color fibers, textiles and food. With the discovery and increasing use of synthetic dyes in the 1850s, a move away from natural colorants to cheaper and easily available dye options spread throughout the clothing industry. Synthetic alternatives were easier to produce and offered more predictable and vibrant colors. Fast forward to today, with a resurgence in natural dye interest among gardeners, artists and fiber enthusiasts.

Growing dye plants helps support diversity in garden plots and offers a creative outlet. Many native and cultivated species thrive in home gardens and yield a beautiful range of dye colors. Dyes can be extracted from various parts of a plant, such as roots, bark, berries, leaves and flowers.

Plants are powerful; they offer many benefits as food, medicine, shelter and more. There are three types of primary plant pigments used in dyeing. Anthocyanins are found in berries, flowers and plants like red cabbage and beets. These pigments produce blue, purple, and red hues. Tannins and flavonoids found in husks, barks, and sumac produce browns and grays, which help to fix dyes into the fibers. Lastly, carotenoids offer yellows, oranges and some faded reds. Think carrots, marigolds, calendula and goldenrod.

Native dye plants are a great option for supporting native pollinators and are well-adapted to the local climate. Native species like big sagebrush leaves and stems create a muted green dye. Goldenrod flowers produce a vibrant golden dye and are often combined with iron for a green shade. Creeping Oregon grape roots and bark produce yellow-green hues, while serviceberry and Chokecherry produce purple dye from the berries. Golden tickseed offers a red-orange dye and can be used fresh or dried. Alder bark is rich in tannins known for brown to black hues. Leaves and berries from Sumac can darken other dyes.

Cultivated dye plants like calendula and marigold create dyes from their flowers and are vibrant orange to yellow hues. Japanese indigo is an experiment in my dye garden this year. It does well in cool northern climates, can be grown from seed and is an annual plant. The leaves offer a vibrant blue dye when extracted in water.

Set up a dye plant garden in a sunny, well-drained site. It is helpful to begin with a soil test to better understand soil properties and choose appropriate plants that will be suited to soil conditions. Plants can be started from seed indoors and transplanted, or sown directly into the landscape once the soil warms. Consider natural fertilizers and encourage soil fertility through good gardening practices, as these can enhance pigment concentration. Harvest flowers when fully open, leaves when tender, and berries when ripe.

Many methods are available to dye fiber. A simple approach, resulting in muted color, is to fill a large jar with water, plant material, and a piece of cloth or other fiber. Allow the mixture to steep, much like a jar of “sun tea,” outside for 10 days. More vibrant colors may require various strategies, including heat or the addition of a mordant (a dye-setting agent) such as alum or cream of tartar to adjust the pH of the dye bath. When working with heat or mordants – be sure to wear thick rubber gloves and eye protection to prevent burns.

A dye garden can be fun for creating modern art in a regenerative way. By blending native plants and cultivated dye plants into the garden, it helps to increase the ecological value and enhance beneficial insect habitat. To learn more, start by visiting the US Forest Service online page about Native Plant Dyes.

 

Sarah Holden is the MSU Extension Horticulturist in
Missoula County.